Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Floor Mounted Barrier for Stone, Marble or Concrete Floors






This barrier is intended for environments where the installation may be of a more permanent nature and has the advantage of not requiring a large steel base for support. The Absolute floor mounted barrier system is ideally suited to a more permanent display and has the added benefit of appearing more discreet than the Freestanding version whilst still indicating that visitors should not touch the exhibits. It’s neutral finish and simple clean lines sit comfortably within the museum and gallery environment, gently reminding the public of its presence without clashing with the display or decor.  This barrier is available in Grey and Stainless Steel.

The clever bit is a stretchy cord, that fits snugly into the top of each post, drawing a neat line in the air, avoiding the distraction of that dreadful droopy rope, and because the elasticated cord makes a straight line, it blends with the architecture of the building helping the barriers to become less obvious and ensuring the artwork is the object of attention.

If required the uprights can be removed and the socket filled with a flush fitting plug that leaves a smooth trip free stainless circle of 60mm diameter.


The floor-mounted version of our barrier system has an upright that fits snugly into a small stainless steel floor socket and supports the elasticated cord which defines restricted access, but gives to the touch thus avoiding tripping or injury. The socket has a lip of just 2.5mm making this a very discrete installation. As with the Freestanding barrier, this features our injection moulded top that helps prevent ‘little fingers' from removing the cap. If required the uprights can be removed and the socket filled with a flush fitting plug that leaves a smooth, trip-free stainless circle of just 25mm.


We recommend a maximum of 10 feet
or 3 meters between these barriers.

 

Installation Instructions:

Barrier – Floor Mounted Barrier Stone:

1. Mark out the position of the sockets. Normal spacing is approx’ 2.5mtrs between posts, but this can be increased to 3mtrs on occasion, so long as the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line. 

2. Drill the holes in the floor surface using an appropriate masonry drill to produce a clean lipped hole 28mm to 30mm dia’ and approx’ 73mm deep and clear the hole of any dust or debris. 

3. Tighten each upright firmly into its socket. 

4. To get the best from this equipment we recommend installing the sockets with the uprights inserted to ensure the cord slots at the top of the post are correctly aligned. 

5. Apply an epoxy resin to the base and sides of the hole and insert the socket the socket, being sure to ‘bed it down’ by using small backwards and forwards rotational motions to assist the movement of the resin. 

6. If required carefully apply additional resin to any gap at the top of the socket to ensure that the finish is flush with the floor and clean off any excess resin that squeezes out. 

7. Use a spirit level to check that the upright it is absolutely vertical, and if necessary support in this position whilst the resin cures. Then, when the resin is cured, for PPC barriers, follow these guidelines... 

8. Remove the top caps using your finger or a small screwdriver and tie a simple ‘granny’ knot in the end of the elasticated cord. Pull it very tight and cut off any excess cord close to the knot. 

9. Push the knot into the recess in the top of the upright with the cord exiting through one of the slots and replace the cap. 

10. Pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a straight line and push into the slots: straight across if it is a straight line or at right angles if it is at a corner. 

11. Repeat step 9 for the last barrier or use a wall terminator. 

Note: In an installation where the object is completely surrounded, instead of two separate knots tie the two ends together with a reef knot, pull very tight and cut off the ends. If required, cut off one of the cap legs to accommodate the size of this knot.

A line of barriers can also end with the cord returning to the wall by using a wall terminator.  

 


For Stainless Steel Barriers, follow these... 

8. Unscrew the top cap until there is a gap large enough to insert the cord. Use a small Allen key or screwdriver in the hole on the side of the cap if additional purchase is needed. 

9. Insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and screw the cap down. 

10. For intermediate barriers, pull the cord tight to the next barrier with enough tension to make a straight line and feed the cord in through one slot, around the cap stem and out through the appropriate slot. Straight through for a line of barriers and ninety degrees at a corner. 

11. Repeat step 9 for the last barrier or use a wall terminator. 

12. When the layout is complete, gently tighten all caps to prevent ‘little fingers’ from removing them. 

Note: In an installation where the object is completely surrounded, repeat step 1 with both cord ends. In this instance it is only necessary to wrap once around the stem. A line of barriers can also end with the cord returning to the wall by using a wall terminator.


 
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